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WINTRY WALK IN DICKENS LONDON
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Our Very Wintry Walk in Dickens' London
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On
a cold, windy day on Sunday January 23rd 2005, about 18
of us gathered eagerly outside Holborn tube station, all
well wrapped up. We met up with our Blue Badge guide, Diane
Burstein, who had also led the JDA group for the Jack the
Ripper Walk last year. Our sign language interpreter was
Ben Phillips. |
Lincoln's Inn Fields
Diane, the guide, took us around some of the sights
that were familiar to Charles Dickens. We walked to Lincoln's
Inn Fields, near Holborn. Up until the 17th century, this was
open fields where executions would take place for criminals.
Charles Dickens' friend and biographer, John Forster, lived
here in an imposing house at No. 58. They had met each other
when they were both working for a newspaper called "The
True Sun" (Dickens was a parliamentary reporter).
Charles Dickens wrote a famous novel named "The
Old Curiosity Shop". We visited the tiny 16th century shop,
which seems to be a shoe shop now!
Lincoln's Inn
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We
continued to Lincoln's Inn, where lawyers have worked and
gathered since the early 15th century. The oldest surviving
building here is the Old Hall, which dates back to 1492.
Dickens set his novel "The Bleak House" here.
The book is about the Chancery case of Tom Jarndyce. Charles
Dickens worked as a legal clerk in the New Square but had
bad experiences that led him to choose another career. |
He switched to reporting in Parliament. It was
here that he posted his first manuscript to a publisher in Fleet
Street. After his first short stories were published, he was
asked to produce the "Pickwick Papers".
The Inn Chapel here dates back to 1623 and the
foundation stone was laid by the famous poet and clergyman John
Donne, who was a member of the Inn.
Chancery Lane
We walked along Chancery Lane. This is mentioned
many times in "The Bleak House" as old Tom Jaryndyce
blew out his brains in a coffee house in the Lane.
We continued to:-
Gray's Inn
This area is named after the family of Sir Reginald
De Gray, Chief Justice of Chester, whose family owned the land
here. It was the largest inn in the 16th century and had the
most famous members including Sir Francis Walsingham, Philip
Sidney and Francis Bacon. Much of Gray's Inn was destroyed in
the Second World War, but the chapel hall and library have been
rebuilt.
Dickens worked as a clerk here and Gray's Inn
was mentioned in "The Pickwick Papers" and "Little
Dorrit".
48 Doughty Street
We saw the outside of Dickens' house, where he
lived for two years from 1837- and it is the only house owned
by Dickens in London, which still stands. The house is now the
Dickens House Museum that you can visit.
While living here, Dickens' sister-in-law, Mary
Hogarth, died at the age of 17 years, after a trip to the theatre.
Dickens was very upset and carried a lock of her hair around
with him for years afterwards.
Doughty Street was a very fashionable road in
the 19th century. It was here that Dickens' wife gave birth
to a 3rd child. Afterwards, the family moved to a larger house
in Marylebone.
Coram's Fields and the Foundling Hospital
We carried on walking and chatting until we arrived
in Coram's Fields, where Captain Thomas Coram set up the Foundling
Hospital in the 18th century. The sight of infants abandoned
by poor parents and left to die in the streets shocked him.
He appealed for money to start an orphanage where children would
be educated for professions. Dickens used to attend services
at the chapel here and mentioned the orphanage in "Little
Dorrit".
Great Ormond Street Hospital for Sick Children
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We
walked past this famous children's hospital. The hospital
was founded by Dr Charles West, due to the high numbers
of children's deaths at the time. It was the first children's
hospital in England.
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Dickens took a lot of personal interest in this
hospital and in 1858 he took the chair at a dinner on its behalf
and made an expressive appeal for funds. Charles Dickens also
read from "A Christmas Carol' to raise money for the hospital.
In the book "Our Mortal Friend", Little Johnny dies
there.
The end
Here we ended our walk, tired out (well, me actually-
don't know about the others!) and went to a local pub for drinks
and coffee to revive ourselves!
We all enjoyed the interesting walk and although
it was very cold to walk about, it was refreshing. Our grateful
thanks go to our excellent guide, Diane, and to our sign language
interpreter, Ben who had not realised it was such a cold day
and wasn't too well wrapped up and forgot his gloves! Despite
this, he relayed the guide's talk very well, although his hands
were gradually going blue and stiff with the cold
I was
so afraid he would get frostbite on his fingers!
Kay Kaufman